Day 06 // Playing Bikes

Words by Stuart Downie

Photos by Alex Duffill, Liz Seabrook, and Tomás Montes

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The race is going to finish today, at least for one person, but we’ll get to that in good time. We’ve waited five days, what’s a few more words.

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When we wake up, Maxime Agut (080) is ahead over the Tourmalet. This is home turf for Maxime, and the local knowledge is no doubt offering a little relief. The morning is cold, the valley bathed in blue light as we wait for the sun to tip over the peaks onto the slope opposite. Two dogs race around on what appears to be an impossibly steep section. Much like the local people living along the route of the TPR we think for a moment: why are they there? 

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The climb up the Tourmalet isn’t especially steep for the most part, but it is very long. Tomas Rongen (119) passes us smiling, and he has a little fun racing up behind race photographer Tomas Montes. “He ruined my shot!” he shouts incredulously as he returns to the warmth of the car, one of many things we’re embarrassed to benefit from. As a kind of conscience-easer, we sheepishly say that our sleep patterns tend to mirror the riders, although this offers neither us nor them much consolation.

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We see our first llamas. Of this race, not ever, the llamas have been here for decades. Why? Worry not, readers, we have done the investigative legwork. It turns out a landowner bought them to act as lawnmowers, like roaming Roombas with shaggy pelts. Of course, wild animals doing as wild animals do, they have multiplied over the years. Nice change from cows and horses and sheeps [sic].

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After the llamas a wild Thomas Boury (109) appears at the summit of the Aubisque. Do not fear, he is strong but he is friendly if you approach slowly. Behind him, tourists take their picture in front of the giant Tour de France bicycles, unaware there is a race going on in front of them. Thomas pulls on two jackets for the descent, and puts everything else on the table. His motivation inspires us as we get back on the road ourselves.

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The villages of the western Pyrenees feel like they’re sprung up from the earth: organic, twisting and narrow, compared with the orderly squares and cobbles of the Haute Pyrenees. Both invite you to stay longer, and we would, but not today.

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By mid afternoon, Maxime is off the end of the Raid Parcours, hours from the coast. Not a daylight finish, but a finish today is up for grabs. It’s barely been a week but it seems as if the season has shifted since we left San Sebastian on Friday. Trees ablaze in reds and browns. Low sun rolls in golden waves over silvery rock, green slopes cascade in diminishing waves from the peaks down to the valleys.

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On the Col de Soudet we see Thomas Boury again. He waves photographer Tomás away on the ascent in a low moment which he later apologises for (no need, racing like this is made of highs and lows). His quad is giving him trouble, and he can’t push hard on the pedals. It’s unbelievable that just six weeks ago Thomas fractured vertebrae in his lower back after a crash with a wild boar. To this point he’s not looked uncomfortable at all, and always been keen to push the pace (his catchphrase). He doesn’t even look that uncomfortable now, we have to take his word for it, and he pushes, keen to do what he can to close the distance and hold onto his spot, with Tim de Witte (111) not far behind.

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At the same time, riding just outside the top ten further back, Alvin Escajeda (003) is reminiscing. “This is the second time a Lost Dot race has made me spontaneously cry. It happened at TCR last year too.” And what brought it on? It’s complicated. “You know, so much cruel shit is happening in the world, and we just get to play bikes, right?”

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Gratitude, frustration, hope, helplessness, humanity. Riding bikes as a microcosm of the human condition. 

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Hélène Fromenty (052), leading woman on the road, has just checked into her hotel at half past eight – in the morning. A little unconventional, perhaps, but she makes the most of it, which is what must be done in a race like this. There are things we can control and things we can’t, and what matters most is how we deal with them.

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At this point, emotions are running high across the field. Riders are tired, wrung out like an old squeegee. For those reaching the coast, there’s the triumph of feeling that you’ve arrived somewhere. But you turn around and look back to the far coast, and it’s a long way. Will Ward (121) tells Hannah Larbalestier in Control Team 2, that he had a little moment yesterday: “My daughter learnt to ride a bike two days ago, while I was here. She was inspired by me I suppose, so she got out and started pedalling. Not that I do this to inspire her, but it’s sweet.”

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Valentin Robe (120) is something of a local, living in Toulouse. He reckons there's more to the route diversion than the closed Port de Lers – it’s been done purely to divert riders to the Tarascon McDonald’s, which is an ultra staple. Perhaps the golden arches might have been in need of the business, serving a whole swathe of road-weary riders. 

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On the topic of local, Valentin should be glad to hear (drum roll please): The Trans Pyrenees Race has its first Pyrenean winner.

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Assembling outside the Koba hostel in San Sebastian, Race Director David Ayre is joined by race leader Maxime Agut’s family, including his dad, or le paps, who has a long history in pro cycling having rubbed shoulders with some big names including Greg Lemond (aka Greg The World to his French fans) and cycling’s very own Voldemort, aka Lance Armstrong.

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Thus it is a beautiful moment when Max rolls in, waves to his family, has his photograph taken by race photographer Liz Seabrook, and enjoys a well deserved beer, all moments before midnight.

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SCRATCH REPORT

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Jamie Lowden (060) Rider scratched 15:35 CEST 8/10 via WhatsApp due to fatigue.

Michael Drummond (081) Rider scratched 12:58 CEST 8/10 via WhatsApp, no reason given, but from Mike himself: “My task is complete”.

Mikke Luostarinen (084) Rider scratched 12:54 CEST 8/10 via WhatsApp due to mechanical issues.

Franck Gabarrou (042) Rider scratched 9:45 CEST 8/10 via phone call due to Shermer’s Neck.

Luc Lütschg (074) Rider scratched 8:30 CEST 8/10 via phone call due to knee pain.

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